Tank Size: Bigger Is Always Better
The single biggest misconception about Bettas is that they are happy in small bowls or vases. They are not. In the wild, Bettas live in rice paddies and slow-moving streams — not cups. A minimum of 20 litres is recommended, with 40L being ideal for a single male. A larger tank is more stable in temperature and water quality, and gives the fish more territory to explore, reducing stress and aggression.
Water Temperature
Bettas are tropical fish that require a water temperature of 24–28°C. Below 22°C they become lethargic, their immune system weakens and they become susceptible to disease. A small adjustable heater is essential — do not rely on room temperature alone unless you live in a genuinely hot climate year-round.
Filtration
Bettas need clean water but dislike strong currents. A sponge filter or a hang-on-back filter with a baffle (a small piece of foam over the outflow) works well. The filter keeps ammonia and nitrite at zero without creating a current that shreds the Betta's delicate fins.
Feeding Bettas
Bettas are carnivores with an upturned mouth designed to catch insects at the water surface. Feed them:
- Betta pellets (Hikari Betta Bio-Gold, Omega One Betta) — 2–4 pellets twice daily
- Frozen or live bloodworms — 2–3 times per week as a treat
- Brine shrimp (frozen or live) — excellent protein source
Do not overfeed. A Betta's stomach is roughly the size of its eye. Overfeeding is the leading cause of bloat and constipation. Fast the fish for one full day per week to help its digestive system.
Male vs Female Bettas
Males cannot be kept together — they will fight to the death. Even seeing their reflection causes stress. Males can sometimes be kept with peaceful, small females in a well-planted tank of 80L+, but supervision is needed. Remove the male immediately if he pursues her relentlessly.
Female Bettas can be kept in groups of 5+ (a "sorority tank") of at least 80L with plenty of hiding spots. Introductions should be done carefully — add all females simultaneously to a newly set-up tank.
Common Betta Diseases and Prevention
Fin rot: Bacterial infection causing fins to appear ragged and dark-edged. Caused by poor water quality. Treat with API Melafix and improve water changes.
Velvet: A parasitic infection that looks like gold or rust dust on the fish's body. Requires a copper-based treatment and darkness (cover the tank).
Ich (white spot): Small white spots that look like salt grains. Raise temperature to 28–30°C and treat with API Ich Cure.
The best prevention for all diseases is consistent, clean water and avoiding stress. A healthy Betta in clean water will rarely get sick.
Tank Decoration
Bettas appreciate a heavily decorated tank with plenty of hiding spots — caves, dense plants (real or silk, not plastic with sharp edges), and floating plants for surface cover. They spend time resting near the surface and like broad leaves like Anubias to rest on. Avoid any decoration with sharp edges that can tear fins.
